A new hotel in the heart of a city always attracts attention, and all eyes really were on the Rosewood Amsterdam when it opened back in May. This was the culmination not of a standard renovation, but of a painstaking 10-year restoration and reinvention project. The building, which was originally constructed as an orphanage in 1665, had served as the Palace of Justice since the early 19th century, when it was significantly developed by architect Jan de Greef. It was he who added the impressive Neoclassical façade you still see today as you walk along Prinsengracht canal towards the hotel.
Now, as you enter the elegant loggia at the front of the hotel, you are greeted not only by friendly doormen but by a striking metal cityscape populated by tiny abstract figures. It is the work of Frederik Molenschot and is among more than 1,000 pieces of art sourced or commissioned specifically for the Rosewood, giving it the feel of a living, breathing gallery. It’s impossible not to stop and admire the numerous works as you move through the communal areas, especially as some creations are interactive – you are actively encouraged to play with Molenschot’s figures, for instance – and others are incredibly inventive. I was particularly taken by Maarten Baas’ Grandmother and Grandfather clocks, which feature videos of his own grandparents drawing and erasing the clock hands.
What is most impressive, though, is how comfortably these bold contemporary pieces sit within this 17th-century building. Such is the skill of renowned Dutch designer Piet Boon, who has worked with the original architectural features to create interiors that are perfectly sympathetic yet decidedly modern. The 134 rooms, suites and residences (known as Houses) are decorated in neutral tones with lots of natural materials and warm bronze and gold accents – a combination that is instantly calming and subtly glamorous. If you can, ask for a room on the second floor, where the ceilings are highest and everything has a particularly light and airy feel.
My room looked out over a courtyard garden landscaped by another famous Piet, Piet Oudolf, which is a haven of peace (and biodiversity) in the city centre. However, this is not just a space to admire from above; it’s somewhere to spend time in, following the winding paths that lead through the plantings to yet more wonderful works of art. If you’re staying with children, get them to spot the cheeky cat hanging from one of the windowsills, made by street artist Frankey. Look down and you’ll notice long glass panels set into the ground: these let natural light into the swimming pool at the subterranean spa Asaya. Here, you can enjoy an Ayurvedic-inspired treatment, a session in the state-of-the-art gym or a relaxing swim in the aforementioned pool. It is the perfect place to unwind after a day visiting the city’s museums and galleries or cruising the canals on-board the hotel’s own salon boat.
In the evening, you can enjoy a special meal at the main restaurant, Eeuwen, where a menu of seasonal dishes is served in a quietly elegant setting. The food is clever and creative, mixing various European influences, though perhaps a little lacking in options for vegetarians and vegans (it might be worth ringing ahead to see what they can do). It is also here that breakfast is served, which is a table-service affair but with plenty of cooked and continental options to choose from. The Court, suitably named to reflect the building’s previous life, is the place for all-day drinks and light meals, served inside or outside in another glorious courtyard. There is a third secret courtyard at the centre of the hotel’s dedicated events space, which comprises a ballroom, a fully equipped kitchen and numerous smaller rooms to suit every need.
For me, the real star of the show was the Advocatuur bar. The menu of specialty cocktails and Indian small plates is fun and flavourful – the Masala chips might just be the world’s best bar snack – and it’s clearly proved a hit with the locals, as they arrived in their droves on the Friday night. While you’re there, take a look at the hotel’s distillery next door, where they make their in-house jenever (a juniper-infused spirit), named Provo after the Dutch counterculture movement of the 1960s and 1970s.
At the other end of the hotel, the former prison cells have been turned into an atmospheric tasting room for jenever ‘lock-ins’. Buy a bottle to take home to see if it really can rival good old British gin, or choose your souvenir from Casper Braat’s art vending machine, which dispenses Amsterdam-themed sculptures for a few hundred euros. When I left, many items were sold out, proving just how invested guests are in this hotel’s bold creative spirit.
Rosewood Amsterdam, Prinsengracht 432-436, 1017 KE Amsterdam, The Netherlands.
Rooms from €1,200. KLM operates daily flights from London to Amsterdam and Rosewood can arrange private airport transfers if requested in advance.
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