There comes a time during the late summer months when thoughts inevitably drift towards the winter ones. The ski-obsessed know very well that the early bird gets the worm – or rather, the first-lift claimers get the crisp morning corduroy all to themselves. For many, the mind goes straight to the classics: Courchevel 1850, with its fashion week feel, snow-sure slopes and mountainside partying; Val d’Isère, where off-piste pros mingle with chalet charm; or Lech, a place that has prettily retained its Austrian soul while remaining a magnet for old-school glamour.
Yet part of skiing’s white magic is discovering places that don’t make every glossy list, resorts where infrastructure and snow conditions are excellent but the crowds thinner, the après less choreographed, and the sense of adventure more palpable. Thankfully, Europe is dotted with such spots – resorts that fly just under the radar but deliver in spades, both on and off the slopes.
Crans-Montana, Switzerland
It’s not cheap, evident in the hotel scene here, namely Six Senses, Le Crans, but this Swiss spot, spread across a sunny plateau high above the Rhône Valley, offers the kind of wide-reaching views you could happily sit and stare at all day – if the skiing weren’t so good. With 140 kilometres of pistes climbing to nearly 3,000 metres (altitude thrill seekers have fun on the Plaine Morte Glacier), the resort pairs intermediate-friendly slopes with high-calibre black runs. It’s also one of Switzerland’s freestyle hubs, with a halfpipe and snowpark that attract the sport’s elite. But what really sets Crans-Montana apart is its vibe. Unlike Verbier’s party scene or St. Moritz’s sparkle, this is more about easygoing sophistication. Think long terrace lunches overlooking glaciers, boutique shopping along the Rue du Prado, and après that leans toward wine bars and art galleries. Sunshine is almost guaranteed thanks to the south-facing slopes, and with Geneva just over two hours away, it’s an accessible choice for weekenders.
Where to stay: Six Senses Crans Montana
La Clusaz, France
La Clusaz – in the heart of the Aravis mountains – has the rare gift of feeling like a living, breathing village rather than a purpose-built one (unlike some of its neighbouring hot spots, such as Val Thorens). Just over an hour by car from Geneva, its cobbled, car-free square, stone church and sprinkling of wooden chalets are surrounded by working farms still producing the nutty Reblochon cheese for which the Haute-Savoie is famous. On the slopes, five linked massifs provide 125 kilometres of varied terrain: the Balme area is a pro’s dream – with wide spaces and Mont Blanc views – while Beauregard offers gentle pistes perfect for beginners. It’s also one of the few resorts where you can combine skiing with a side trip to Annecy (if you need to break up the trip). Après-ski antics are distinctly French: vin chaud by the fire and cosy fondue suppers. It’s less of a passing playground and more of a locals’ land – or an expats’ paradise, where families have quietly held onto their apartments for decades.
Where to stay: Au Cœur du Village Hôtel & Spa
Riksgransen, Sweden
Amazingly, Riksgransen suffered so badly from too much snowfall at the turn of the 20th century that the resort was forced to close down. Now, powder hounds and light chasers seek these Swedish slopes for midnight sun skiing. Sitting more than 200 kilometres above the Arctic Circle, the season stretches into May, and even June, when you can make swish turns under a soft-lit sky at midnight. The resort itself is modest in size, with peaks topping out at just over 900 metres (heli-skiers rejoice here), but the terrain feels endless thanks to open boundaries and easy access to off-piste couloirs. Powder lasts longer here in Lapland than in most of Europe, and the northern lights are a regular evening sighting. It’s remote (over four hours by plane from Stockholm to Kiruna, then a two-hour drive), a free-riding paradise and refreshingly unlike the Alps, which is precisely the draw.
Where to stay: Niehku Mountain Villa
Geilo, Norway
About halfway between Bergen and Oslo, Geilo claims the title of one of Norway’s oldest ski resorts. It’s a family-friendly dream: nursery slopes and ski schools are excellent, and when little legs tire, there’s dog sledding, ice fishing, and even fat-biking to keep them entertained. Après-ski is more about fireside hot chocolate than Champagne sprays, which only adds to its appeal for those who want their mountain break with a hefty side of hygge. Surrounded by frozen lakes and pine-clad hills, there are more than 200 kilometres of trails – it’s one of Scandinavia’s most versatile mountain playgrounds (despite being lower in altitude). Alpine skiers will find broad, confidence-building pistes and a handful of more technical terrains, while seasoned pros stick to steep Nordic runs.
Where to stay: Geilo Mountain Lodge
Alta Badia, Italy
Few ski areas can compete with the beauty of Alta Badia. And while the Dolomites have seen an obsessive all-eyes-ness during the summer, we turn to the UNESCO World Heritage site for its 130 kilometres of gentle pistes in winter. It’s an intermediate’s heaven, with long cruising runs and seamless connections into the Dolomiti Superski network, including the famous Sella Ronda circuit. Food here is reason enough to visit. Mountain huts dish up Ladin specialities like speck dumplings, while San Cassiano is home to multiple Michelin-starred chefs (and the new Aman Rosa Alpina). For those wanting a challenge, the Gran Risa black run in La Villa hosts World Cup races each December. Otherwise, days are best spent gliding between rifugi, sipping wine and scooping strudel against one of the most cinematic backdrops in Europe.
Where to stay: Aman Rosa Alpina
Andorra
The tiny independent country of Andorra, sandwiched nicely between France and Spain, has long been a duty-free shopping stop. But in recent years it has blossomed into a fully fledged ski destination, with slick lift systems, reliable snowmaking and a growing number of stylish hotels. Grandvalira, the flagship area, covers 210 kilometres of pistes, making it one of the largest ski domains in Europe. What’s really striking, though, is the value: lift passes and bars to drink at often come in far cheaper than the Alps (you can thank no VAT for the latter), yet the quality is impressively high. Slopes are wide and well-groomed, the après scene is buzzing in Soldeu and Pas de la Casa (really, the parties kick off around midnight), and there are thermal spas for weary legs. For families, groups and anyone curious to try something new, this part of the Pyrenees makes a persuasive case.
Where to stay: L'Ovella Negra
Baqueira Beret, Spain
Spain may not be the first country that comes to mind for mogul mounting, but this spot in the Catalan Pyrenees makes a strong argument. The Spanish royal family are often spotted with poles in hand, and with 100 miles of marked pistes climbing 2,600 metres, it’s easy to see why. Snow reliability is excellent – particularly up in the higher bowls after a powder dump – off-piste terrain is plentiful, and the Val d’Aran’s landscapes rival anything in the Alps. The atmosphere is relaxed and distinctly Spanish: long tapas lunches stretch into the afternoon (a ski day doesn’t really get started here until lunchtime anyway), après is convivial rather than boot stomping, and the food scene is hot with Basque and Catalan ingredients. For skiers looking for a fresh alternative to the Alpine mainstream, Baqueira is still something of a secret beyond Spain.
Where to stay: Try Plum Guide or Melia Hotels.
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