Gâteau basque

The Basque Country is divided between Spain and France. The North in France (iparralde, as we call it) speaks Basque with a French accent, and the South in Spain (hegoalde) speaks Basque—well, you guessed it—with a Spanish accent. Until the European Union eliminated all borders, we had to bring our passports anytime we traveled to the North. There was always tension felt at the border and exhilaration once we made it through. I loved driving those sixty miles to simply eat some Gâteau Basque at centuries-old Maison Adam. The pastry was very popular in the North and hard to find in the South, its buttery crust filled with creamy custard or preserves from nearby jam makers. The pastry is somewhere between a tart and a cake, and oftentimes, the top is decorated with a lauburu, the symbol of Basque unity.

A recipe from Canelle et Vanille by Aran Goyoaga (Sasquatch Books).