I’ve made no secret of my love for Ibiza. With its crystalline waters, beachfront restaurants and beautiful, shady hikes that end in tiny coves, I think it’s one of the best places on the planet. However, it’s impossible to visit the white isle without hearing whispers about Formentera, Ibiza's baby sister, which lies just thirty minutes away by boat. Everywhere you go, you'll catch locals commending Formentera's laidback charm and unspoilt beaches, you'll hear stories of the island's beautiful restaurants and wellness-first stays–so when Dunas de Formentera opened its doors, I knew it was time for me to explore the island myself.
The quiet house in the noisy Balearic neighbourhood, the long dusty roads that lead away from Formentera’s ferry port are a world away from Ibiza's, or Mallorca's, thoroughfares. Here, beeping taxis are replaced by locals speeding by in Citroen Maharis, beach clubs are swapped out for families playing volleyball, and the closest you’ll get to a club are the small shacks serving cañas just off the road. If Ibiza is sequins, Formentera is crumpled linen.
I arrived at Dunas de Formentera not knowing what to expect. Thanks to the island's fierce eco-protections, there's very little a new hotel can do to make a space their own. Often, this can result in soulless spaces, built for the masses, not the individual. I needn't have been concerned. Marugal, whose properties include Cap Rocat on Mallorca and Torralbenc on Menorca, have a long history of working within an environment to create iconic, special destinations, and Dunas de Formentera is no different.
The resulting hotel has the feel of a small hamlet. Cool, creamy villas are nestled underneath shady pines, separated by sandy tracks that wind through the hotel. There are no walls to separate the hotel from the beach, no fences to block your passage. There's a wildness here that feels invigorating and refreshing, but then you reach the tranquil pool area and have all of the five-star amenities you could want at your fingertips.
My room was decorated in that charming, Balearic style: crisp white bedding, wooden furniture and polished concrete. Materials that heralded, rather than distracted from the room’s staggering vistas. In keeping with the hotel's emphasis on sustainability, bathroom amenities are provided in reusable bottles and the shower has a wooden hourglass timer set to five minutes so guests are more aware of their water consumption.
Formentera might be tiny–so tiny in fact that there are no traffic lights on the island, but don’t let that deceive you into thinking there’s nothing to do. Sure, Dunas de Formentera feels like a private paradise, but you’re never more than fifteen minutes away from a world-class restaurant. Two recommendations are Juan y Andrea and Chezz Gerdi, both ideal destinations for long, leisurely lunches. For those that want to stay in, though, Dunas de Formentera’s restaurant, Caliu, serves up breakfast, lunch and dinner, with enough choice to keep your tastebuds busy throughout your stay. The breakfast, in particular, was a highlight, with seasonal smoothies on offer alongside eggs and fresh pastries.
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I stayed at Dunas de Formentera in early May, just as the island was shaking off its wintry slumber. Whilst you might be tempted by the guaranteed sunshine of the high season, this hotel feels like the perfect place to stay in the shoulder seasons. I recommend walking (or running) to La Mola lighthouse, which stands some 120 metres above sea level on the La Mola plateau. Alternatively, you can rent bikes to explore the island on, or simply spend your time swimming in the brilliant blue waters of Migjorn beach.
Formentera has a magical atmosphere–it’s as though it exists just for you and the days slip by like sand through your fingers. Ibiza might be my first love, but next summer? I’ll struggle to choose.
Dunas de Formentera | Prices start from £415 per night
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