To understand the magic of Domaine de Murtoli, a 2500-hectare farm and estate on the southern coast of Corsica, you must first understand the magnetic pull of the island itself. Known as the L'Île de Beauté (Isle of Beauty), this is a place of dramatic natural beauty, where the mountains plunge into the sea, and the air is heavy with the scent of the maquis—that dense, aromatic scrub of wild myrtle, immortelle, and thyme that blankets the island. It is a landscape that demands your attention, wilder and more untamed than the polished coasts of the French Riviera.
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Domaine de Murtoli is the perfect place to experience what this landscape has to offer. The estate resists definition, although perhaps the Italian concept of the agriturismo comes closest, since it is primarily a farm and nature reserve, but it also has some seriously lovely places to stay. There are two hotels on the estate, the Hotel de la Ferme at the heart of it and the newer, smaller A Mandria a little further north. Beyond these there are 20 houses to rent on the estate, known as sheepfolds since they are largely restored 17th-century shepherds' huts and farmhouses, ranging from tiny one-bedroom boltholes to sprawling mini-estates that can sleep large groups. People come here to disappear into the landscape, to sleep in stone houses that look ancient but offer five-star comfort, and to eat food grown just metres from their table.
The Domaine remains fundamentally what it has always been, a family-run farm, raising cattle and sheep, growing fruit and vegetables, and cultivating vines and olive trees. The restaurants on the estate, including the fine dining La Table de la Ferme at the main hotel, make excellent use of this produce, so you can indulge in the Domaine's own versions of the famous Corsican sheep's cheese, their own salamis, honeys, olive oils, and of course wine. The rugged terrain produces wines of incredible character – crisp Vermentinos and spicy Sciaccarellus that taste of the sun-baked soil – and the Domaine will soon have its own winery, so that everything can be produced on site.
While the scattered sheepfolds offer comfortable isolation and the Hotel de la Ferme offers the luxury of fine dining and golf on the doorstep, the estate’s newest addition, A Mandria, is somewhere between the two. Designed to resemble a small, traditional Corsican village, A Mandria is a cluster of suites and rooms nestled in the Ortolo Valley. It serves as a perfect "hotel within the estate," bridging the gap for those who want the Murtoli experience but prefer the convenience of hotel services over a standalone villa.
The design at A Mandria, as throughout the estate, is a masterclass in integrating historic design with modern comfort. The buildings are constructed from local stone and wood, disappearing into the olive trees and oaks. Inside, the design is the most inviting version of Mediterranean farmhouse chic – think terracotta tiles, massive wooden beams, antique furniture, and a palette of warm, earthy tones. Everything is hugely comfortable, from the crisp linens on the beds to the generous freestanding bathtubs.
One of the distinct pleasures of staying at A Mandria is the exclusive access to its own restaurant, which differs from the rest of the estate by offering a warm, Italian-influenced menu—a nod to Corsica’s historical Genoese connections. Dining here, by the fire pit or under the olive trees, feels intimate and cosy. However, guests also have full access to the other dining options in the wider Domaine, including the La Table de la Ferme, La Table de la Grotte – a traditional Corsican restaurant built into a cave and lit by candles, and La Table de la Plage, the beachside restaurant where you can enjoy fresh seafood simply cooked.
When staying here, it can be hard to see why you would leave the estate, since there is so much to experience. There are miles of countryside to explore, and activities on offer from picking your own fruit for breakfast on the farm to guided nature walks amidst the wildflowers, from kayaking in the sea to horseriding through the hills. For more relaxed days, there is the beautiful beach to enjoy, with its own casual seaside restaurant and spa where you can have massages with the sound of the waves in the background.
However you decide to experience the Domaine, it's difficult to go wrong. Whether you choose to get away from it all in one of the delightfully remote sheepfolds, go for fly-and-flop comfort at La Hotel de la Ferme, or head for the village-like atmosphere of A Mandria, it will be a wonderful way experience everything Corsica has to offer. This is a place where you can eat cheese made that morning, swim in a private sea, and fall asleep to the absolute silence of the maquis.
Rates at the Domaine de Murtoli range from €320€ to €1160 per night for a double room at Hôtel de la Ferme and from €240€ to €400 per night for a double room in the main house at A Mandria. murtoli.com | amandriadimurtoli.com
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